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Thread: Help me match these parts please....

  1. #1
    Senior Hostboard Member oface1's Avatar
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    Well, you do have your work cut out for you.

    I have a simple question for you, how do you past pics like this?

    I tried last night and all that turned out when I previewed my message was some little icon at the bottom of my message.


    Thanks,


    -chris

  2. #2
    Inactive Member bfish's Avatar
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    Originally posted by ClassicComics:
    ...Woofers - 421-8a x 2...

    ...421-8h x1
    423-8Z (I have been told) x1...
    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you don't trust what you've "been told", you could always go to the trouble of looking it up yourself;

    http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/...975-driver.htm

    image #9 for the 423-8Z cross-reference.

    Several of your LF drivers have obviously been altered, so what the label says they are is meaningless. Depending on what 'frams are in what motors (regardless of label), your HF drivers may be an equivalent mess.

    Ideally, you could performance-test everything, and select the nearest matching 3 of each for your theater front. As GM suggested, the next best would be using the closest matched pair for L and R, and the next closest match for center.

    Same goes for the XOs.

    If you can't/won't test, the remaining options are;

    buy/swap for known matching components
    rebuild for known matching components
    install what you have and live with it

    Since so much of your stuff isn't verifiably (from here) original, having us guess matches from pictures is little help.

  3. #3
    Inactive Member ClassicComics's Avatar
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    Ok, I finally got around to taking apart all 5 of the A7 Vott's I currently have and I need to make 3 matching speakers for my theater, left, right, and center. I do not have enough matching parts.... eventually I will sell some parts off and buy some more and get this right.... but for now, please help me put together my best set of 3 out of what I currently have...

    HF Drivers: 2 x 807-8a
    2 x 808-8a

    Horns: 4 x 511b and 1 x 811

    Woofers - 421-8a x 2 (one has a tape repair that someone did before I owned, works fine....)

    421-8h x1
    423-8Z (I have been told) x1

    Electro Voice woofer... to be sold...

    Dividing Network - n809-8a x4

    1st related question... when I opened up all the boxes and looked at the dividing networks, I have 2 that look the same and two that do not, yet they are all labeled n809-8a (please see picture below):

    Notice how the two on the left almost match, but the one second to the left has 4 (I think they are capacitors - the black things with the red ends) and the other to it's left only has 2. Also, the other two that are matching look like completely different "capacitors" then the other 2. They also have these metal enclosures that go over the back that I like, can those be purchased anywhere easily?

    15

    Also, below is a pic of the woofers for reference - I noticed how the center of the 421-8a's have a screen center and the other two have solid centers - one silver one black:
    16

    THANKS FOR ANY HELP AND OR ADVICE!!


    And just for kicks, if you want to see this mess all together:
    17

    And my 5 boxes in my garage (two I just went over with wood filler, and I am going to sand and re-paint tomorrow)...
    18

    <font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 21, 2008 12:18 AM: Message edited by: ClassicComics ]</font>

  4. #4
    Inactive Member ClassicComics's Avatar
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    Ok, on the vented woofers, I shined a flashlight through the hole and one goes through and the other doesn't.... what does that mean. And how do I fix it?

    THANKS!!

  5. #5
    Inactive Member bfish's Avatar
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    The easist "fix" is to tape off the vent on the rear of the one that goes clear thru. Seal it airtight with duct tape, foil tape, etc.

    All 421 variants originally vented the VC to the rear thru the pole piece, with a screen under the rear plate. They need to be vented from one side or the other, but being open clear thru is a big no-no for a tuned box, especially one loaded down further with a horn.

  6. #6
    Inactive Member ClassicComics's Avatar
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    Thanks! I'm on it!

  7. #7
    Inactive Member ClassicComics's Avatar
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    I have decided to mount all my horns on top, which I have never done before as my original 2 were mounted in the box. Here is how I was thinking.... not exact positioning, but the idea. Seems to take a good bit of the ring out of the horn as well... see pics below... also, is there a place I can look to see exactly where to mount the horn from front to back?

    10

    Piece of 1" x 2" to screw to top of cabinet and then to bottom of horn.

    11

    Some styrofoam insulation stacked under the driver. It leans it forward slightly, which I may not be able to do as easily once I screw the board to the top of the box, but since I am putting the speakers almost at the ceiling, I don't mind the slight angle down if I can keep it... otherwise I'll have to trim the foam a bit I guess.

  8. #8
    Inactive Member notloudenough's Avatar
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    CC,
    At first glance it appears that you have four similar speakers. [I'm comparing the parts in the one far away picture.] Like bfish posted you'll have to start comparing part numbers to find out what exactly you have.
    Your h.f. voice coils should be 19.3" from the front edge of your cabinets for proper physical phasing.
    If you decide to keep all five cabinets I have a stay 421-8h I'd be willing to part with. This way you'd have two sets the same and a stray for a center.

  9. #9
    Inactive Member ClassicComics's Avatar
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    bfish - not that I don't trust what you said, in fact I do, that's why I put it that way. I was just making the point that there was no label on it. I guess I could have just said no label... not trying to offend you...

    Ok.... well, I was hoping to learn some more info. Maybe someone knew that some of these matched better than others.... or could tell by looking at them what had been done to them. I guess I will try mixing and matching for now and go from there... For now I think I am going to try 2 of the 807-8a's for the left and right and one 808-8a for the center. Then I am going to send off the other 808-8a to GPA to get re-done. Once I get it back I am going to send in the other one and then I am going to keep an eye out for another one.

    The woofers... I really have no idea... I guess I'll use the matched pair (though one has a repair and I was hoping to not use it right now so I could have time to get it reconed). Then I will listen to the other two... I thought maybe you guys would know if certain ones matched each other better...

    Crossovers - of course I will use the matched pair with the ones on the right side of the picture, just didn't know which of the other two might match it better....

    Problem is I may not be able to figure out what is coloring the sound with so many different parts involved... guess I'll try, was hoping for some informed guidance.

    I guess I can take a multi-meter and test the resistance on the different parts and see which match best.... we'll see how it goes...

    Anyone have any parts they want to trade out?

    Also, of note, I e-mailed GPA about a price quote to re-do my 808-8a's and one guy e-mailed me back saying, " Please note that we no longer have the material to perform the felt modification (and from a reliability standpoint, we do not recommend this modification). You might try sourcing material from a local hobby-store and cutting it to fit the inside of your back covers. If the desired thickness is not available, you can use adhesive (sparingly) to obtain the desired thickness."

    And then I got another e-mail from someone else with a quote that included adding felt??? Anyone know anything about this?

    Oface1:

    Lastly on posting pictures.... I use Photobucket to store my pics and they provide you with a direct image link that you can easily post into forms....just cut and paste.

    <font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 21, 2008 12:39 PM: Message edited by: ClassicComics ]</font>

  10. #10
    Inactive Member bfish's Avatar
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    dadgum double click. see below.

    <font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 21, 2008 12:55 PM: Message edited by: bfish ]</font>

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